A couple of years ago, I had the idea of filming walking tours around my neighborhood in the heart of Phuket Town, Thailand, and dreamt of having a successful YouTube channel. I planned to call it Phuket Walkabout and spent more time trying to design a logo than I did learning to make good videos. I quickly abandoned the idea after a couple of shaky-cam videos that got flagged for using copyrighted music. I also felt that most of my “cinematography” fell far short of conveying how much I love living here.
Even before my failure as a Ken Burns (or, better, Anthony Bourdain) protégé, I had always wanted to properly photo-blog the area. The sights and sounds seen every time I venture out of my tiny apartment have never ceased to enthrall me even after nearly a decade of living in the same space. This is a real milestone for me as I have always tired of living in any given location after just a few years. In the five years prior to moving just a short walk from the historic center known as Old Town, I had changed my home in Phuket three times. The fourth came about towards the end of July 2010, a few weeks after starting work at the company which still employs me. Unfortunately, my meagre photographic skills never really portrayed the strong feelings that I have whenever I wander around the small downtown area and adjacent streets and alleyways.
I am also just plain lazy. I would rather sit on my bed doing a variety of “work” on my laptop. On any given day that includes reading an eBook, researching and writing about new stamp issues, perusing social media, doing online shopping, watching the occasional TV show or movie and, yes, devouring YouTube videos which lately are mostly travelogues about places nobody can visit at the moment. Sometimes, I may even force myself to create a lesson plan or several for my classes at school.
My task list for Friday, the first day of the New Year, included an emphatic “Afternoon Walk!!” that I kept delaying until it finally began to rain. The only times I had ventured outside since our school closed last week due to a COVID scare was a shopping trip to 7-Eleven and another to the Mini-TOPS. Oh, I suppose descending (and ascending) four flights of stairs to retrieve a pizza delivery counts as well. Unless I really have to go somewhere (work, for a non-food related example), I have gotten to the point that I really do not like going outside.
Yesterday (Saturday), I had to force myself to take a little walk around the neighborhood. I am so glad that I did!
I consider most of the area around “downtown” to be my backyard because it’s all rather close together. There is always much to see (and do and eat, if I am so compelled). Phuket Town is indeed thriving despite the huge economic disaster that has gripped most of this tourism-reliant province. While a few old favorites are closed-off with sheets of corrugated tin or gated with ominous signs, there are many new businesses that seem to be doing well and others that are opening soon. I counted three restaurants and two bars completing construction or remodeling within less than a kilometer from my front door.
It was a nice day — a bit of a breeze cooling down the typically scorching January — and there were loads of people out, also enjoying themselves. A good number were tourists from other parts of Thailand but the clear majority were local people, perhaps from elsewhere on the island, just trying to get some fresh air and do some shopping in these uncertain times.
For a change, I was pleased with quite a few of the photos I took. Here are my favorite sights seen on what ended up more than two hours of Phuket Town walkabout.
I live on a small soi (a narrow lane) the leads into the back of a local mall known as Limelight. This area has changed over the years but has remained the location of a popular weekly market. 
Many of the local restaurants still have their Christmas decorations on display. A lot of them really went out of their way for 2020. 
Raya is a very popular local food restaurant housed in a heritage mansion. 
On this particular day, a couple of the reindeer were being swung in circles by the breeze. It looked like they were trying to fly. 
Thalang Road has been the heart and soul of Phuket Town since the early 20th century. While stretches of it may appear quiet at any given time, vans full of tourists arrive on a regular basis and then everyone bursts into action. 
John Donut moved recently to the southern side of the road and towards the opposite end. It is crowded every time I walk past so I have yet to venture inside. It is now housed in the historic China Inn. 
Motorbikes lining Thalang Road. 
The local art murals remain popular selfie backdrops although many need a bit of touching-up. I miss the mural that once graced this wall; a photo of it was my first ever Facebook cover image. 
Soi Rommannee was once a notorious red-light district, full of brothels frequented by the Chinese migrant workers who filled the local tin mines. This was Phuket’s main industry before tourism took hold in the 1970s. Rubber-tapping was second place and I suspect that it still is. The large pink building was a brothel a hundred years ago where a notorious murder took place, the disposal of the body still talked about in local whispers.
Currently, the narrow and short lane is experiencing a vibrancy that I have not seen here in a very long time. While the southern end has long been popular with the wedding photographers and selfie mavens, there are many new places to eat and drink just a few steps away. One even features a queue number announcement system similar to those in banks or government offices due to its popularity (the loudspeaker mars the otherwise peaceful nature of the alleyway). One of the excellent local ice creameries located here has expanded to have an outlet on opposite sides of the soi. There is a dog café that goes nicely with the cat café not far away.
Given the severe warnings to stay inside (wearing masks at all times) prevalent throughout Thailand the last week or so, I was shocked to see so many people out and about. Saturday afternoons are usually much quieter on Thalang Road. 
Almost everybody I saw was wearing a mask over their mouths and noses (none of that chin decoration) and most attempted to maintain a social distance of 1-2 meters. I kept veering into the street whenever somebody approached on the sidewalk. 
Thai Hua is one of my favorite heritage mansions in the center of Phuket Town. It was the community’s first Chinese school and is now a nice museum. I haven’t been inside for a few years…. 
I believe this building was the original location of Sirioj hospital. My company owns the neighboring school and is currently renovating it. 
Back on Thalang Road, I ran into one of my favorite former students who is now somewhat of an entrepreneur giving a lot of local young people a shot at having their own business.
I really must try out John Donut soon. 
John Donut is now housed in the front of China Inn, itself a popular restaurant serving local delicacies. 
Wow! It all looks yummy! Maybe I will stop by on the way home from school tomorrow (if we go back — no word yet). 
Looking west from John Donut down Thalang Road. Following the intersection with Yaoworat Road, it turns into Krabi Road. 
There are a few former single-wide restaurants and fabric shops that have combined and become large clothing shops. This one was packed. Another big change is that most now have strong lighting so you can actually see inside from the streetside! 
The entrance to Soi Rommannee is on the right. 
I love these types of entrances which used to predominate Thalang Road. Sadly, many have been removed as new businesses take hold. Most of the old shophouses on adjacent Krabi Road still feature the original doors. 
I wish I could remember what was here before. I am certain it wasn’t nearly so grand. 
I love walking by the shops and hearing somebody inside call my name when they recognize me. 
Coconut milk stand along Thalang Road.
The symbol of Phuket Town is the “clock tower building” which was the municipalty’s first police station when built in the 1910’s. They put it on the street corner opposite of what was the first foreign-owned bank in all of Siam (the country didn’t become Thailand until the 1930’s).
The clock has a long history of mishaps starting when the ship carrying the original from Penang in the Straits Settlements (present-day Malaysia) sank while en route. The replacement stopped working soon after delivery. It was finally replaced two or three years ago but it, too, stopped working earlier this year. It seems to be working once again now.
Today, this is a hugely popular spot for selfies and graduation photos. It can be difficult to walk around the corner without getting into somebody’s shot and drivers need to pay special attention as many people love to be filmed while attempting to cross the road. I always take great care so I do not spoil somebody’s photo or video (the person with the camera tends to “hide” in the arches but often somebody will bump into me when I stop as they aren’t paying as much attention.
Phang Nga Road never really gets its just due. Running parallel to Thalang Road, it just doesn’t get nearly the same amount of foot traffic despite there being quite a few new and long-established restaurants and interesting shops. The big book shop/noodle shop seems to have closed permanently and I worry about the new location of Cue Bar not to mention the Mexican restaurant, Amore. 
There are also a few boutique hotels and hostels scattered about. 
A meat restaurant on Phang Nga Road. High-end beef with prices to match. 
The On-On Hotel was Phuket’s first, dating back to the tin-mining boom of the early 20th century. 
It was so run down in the 1990’s that it subbed for a Khaosan Road (Bangkok) backpacker’s dive in Leonardo di Caprio’s “The Beach” movie. 
The On-On has since been transformed into a luxury boutique hotel and the prices to match. 
My favorite local Chinese shrine is hidden in plain view. The main entrance is next to this ugly concrete building but then it opens out into a restaurant on Thalang Road. 
I usually go inside but it seemed like they were cleaning the alleyway on this day, so I will pay it another visit some other time. 
The end of Phang Nga Road, coming out onto Yaoworat Road.
There are a few bars along the north-south oriented Yaoworat Road but restaurants have changed numerous times over the years. The fancy ice cream place is still around (and smells wonderful whenever I walk by due to the fresh home-baked cones) but two hamburger joints have failed on the southern stretch of the road in as many years and the pizza place looks gone for good as well. The big electronics showroom on the corner has been completely gutted; I cannot tell what will replace it but it will probably be yet another restaurant. More failures than successes in this area. I might have to try out Hog’s Head Tavern before they succumb as well.
I then turned back onto Krabi Road, heading east. I passed my favorite piece of local street art, a lobster climbing a restaurant’s wall, and the beautifully restored Kasikorn Bank building which has the most wonderful postal pillar box in all of Phuket sitting outside.
I will leave you here today as I turn south towards Ratsada Road which contained the first real signs of economic trouble including one real shock! I will put together Part Two of my walkabout around Phuket Town later in the week.
Mark Joseph Jochim 